Gemalogue's Design: Oceanic Cuff

As you may know I recently started my jewelry design journey at FIT in New York. I used to take jewelry design for granted but now that I am making my own jewelry, I have to say that the process is an enduring physical process. Every piece takes countless of hours from start to finish. Since this was my first design, I decided to document my design journey.

My bracelet design was inspired by the ocean, I love anything with soft curves and abstract shapes, therefore I incorporated it into my design by making it resemble the ocean floor. I also love working with any stones that are sparkly, whether they be natural gemstones or crystals. For this particular design I used crystals to represent the sparkles that occurs when the sunlight hits the surface of the water.



The green piece you see above is a wax piece that I carved out to the shape that I want. The tiny holes are where the crystals are going to be in.



Next the wax piece was sent for casting. I cast it sterling silver. However somehow I didn't really like the way the curve on the cuff looked so I decided to change the cuff design.

Here you noticed the little extruded curve had been removed. I think it is much more aesthetically pleasing now. Next, the cast piece was soldered onto the cuff so it becomes one solid piece. I have to say it was a tedious process because holes were drilled in order to hold both pieces together, and any wrong measurement would cause the middle part to sit slanted or incorrectly.

Below you can see the initial sketch I had in mind and what the product came out to look.

Finally the last step was to plate the cuff, thanks to a lovely person from instagram I chose rose gold with rhodium. I was contemplating between gold and rose gold but I'm happy at how this color combination came out instead. The rose gold and silver color gives of a soft look. The stones that I used for the tiny holes were cabochons, so when I run my fingers through it there's a textured feeling.

Below was a custom piece I made for a customer. She wanted everything to be solid sterling silver (hence more expensive). If you notice, I replaced the cabochon stones with Swarovski crystals instead so it helps bring the cuff to life.

Hope you enjoy my piece! I'm looking forward to sharing more designs with you all :) Find me on instagram and follow my design journey! Happy holidays! XOXO

Mystery Diamond Cuts Solved

With it being bridal season, and the increase of couples falling for vintage engagement rings. I have put together a list of the most popular vintage diamond cuts that I think would be helpful when your man buys you that engagement ring. ;)

ROSE CUTS

This cut dates to the 1500s and remained common during the Georgian (1714-and the Victorian Eras (1837-1901) The rose cut resembles a rosebud, with a flat bottom and dome-shaped crown that rises gently to a single apex, with between three and twenty-four facets. Because of the rose cut diamonds it give off a warm, romantic shimmer.  

Antique Georgian rose cut diamond cluster ring. Sold on 1stdibs.

Victorian Dahna Ring features seven rose cut diamonds. Sold on Brilliant Earth.

OLD MINE CUT

This cut dates to the 1700s and was also widely used during the Georgian and Victorian Eras.This cut was invented before the jewelers understood how light passes through the diamonds, therefore the old mine cuts were faceted around the natural edges of the diamond. Which explains it being less dazzling compared to modern cuts. The old mine cut is considered an early form of today’s cushion cut. 

 Victorian old mine cut diamond and sapphire ring. c. 1893. Sold on Bavier Brook. 

Old mine cut diamond ring featuring nine diamonds. 

OLD EUROPEAN CUT

The old European cut was first seen in the 1800s and was used often in Victorian engagement rings, Edwardian designs, and Art Nouveau styles. This cut typically features 58 facets and a circular shape. To understand the evolution of jewelers knowledge in diamonds, it’s best to study this cut as it’s been through many variations.

 Antique Edwardian ring featuring a 0.65 carat old european cut diamond. Sold on SOHO Jewelers.  

Platinum 1.43ct old european cut diamond ring. Sold on Raymond Lee Jewelers.

SINGLE CUT 

This is one of the oldest cut that dates back to the 1300s. The diamond features a flat top and an octagonal griddle, where the edge of the diamond is at its widest point. 

Single cut diamonds feature 18 facets, and you’ll often see small single cut diamonds accenting a center gemstone in antique rings from the early twentieth century when jewelers still lacked the ability to create many facets in tiny gems. 

 Sapphire and diamond ring. c. 1920, 6.26ct sapphire surrounded by 18 single cut stones.

The diagram below gives a clearer idea of how the cuts are done on the diamonds. I can't say that I have a personal favorite between these cuts, I think they are all unique and give off a different vintage vibe. Which ones are your favorite?

European Snuffboxes

First off, I want to say a big THANK YOU for the support you all have shown on my social media channel. I would have never thought that there is such a big Antique family out there. When I first started my blog and instagram, it was just a place for me to organize my information and the things I have learned. However it has grown into so much more, it has become a place to share and exchange ideas with other jewelry enthusiasts.

A few days ago I made a trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It's a place I go to for inspiration and to spend time with myself. My destination was to visit the European Decorative Arts section. To my surprise, there were many snuff boxes in that section. Today’s post feature Snuff boxes from the 18th to 19th century.

I didn't know much about snuff boxes, it sounded to me like a box you sniff something out off. And I was right! Inhaling snuff, or snuffing as it's also called, was first witness by European in 1493 when Friar Ramón Pane, who had arrived in the new world was living as a missionary among Haiti’s indigenous Taino. Until then tobacco was unknown to Europeans, but during the 1500s the use of tobacco spread tremendously. By the late 17th century, ornate boxes were created to keep the precious powder dry.

Early 18th century, French jewelers made snuff boxes out of gold set with diamonds, amethysts, and sapphires. By 1740, specialized artisan took over the production of these ornate tabatières and engraved, chased, and enameled them. Below is a snuff box made out of gold, enamel and diamonds. ca. 1820. When wound up, the bird turns and flutters its wings while music plays. These "singing bird" boxes were especially popular in the East.

SHAPES:

Snuff boxes shapes were not limited to simple rectangles. The most common were porcelain containers resembling trunks, so were ovals, but tabatières shaped like shells were more rare. The snuff box below is varicolored, gold and enameled. Signed: J.N (John Northam? active 1793) After William IV's accession in 1830, this otherwise plain box was embellished with an encrusted plaque bearing his monogram.

MEDIUM:

Sometimes these snuff boxes were hand painted. Pictures of miniature landscapes, bucolic scenes to tiny portraits or grisaille cameos of their owners could be seen. 

Silver snuff boxes are usually associated with Sheffield, England, where silver-plating technologies were more advanced in the late 18th century. Below is a 1750 Germany gold and mother-of-pearl snuff box. It's a gift of J. Pierpont Morgan. 

By the 19th century, the silver industry has blossomed in Birmingham, England. Box makers such as Samuel Pemberton, Nathaniel Mills, and Edward Smith were some of the many well-known container producers who produced images of castles and abbeys on the box tops and sides.

ABOVE: Gold, enamaled, ivory, glass snuffbox. Joseph- Etienne Blerzy (master 1768) Miniature attributed to Francios Dumont.



BELOW: Double Snuffbox. Gold, enamel, vellum, gouache, glass. Jean Ducrollay. Miniature portraits on all sides and inside the two covers of Louis XV, Marie Leszeznska, and their children. (1749-50)



Soon Birmingham became the center for papier-mâché snuff boxes, which were hardened by multiple layers of enamel. As the market for inexpensive boxes grew in the United States, Birmingham box makers were decorating their wares with portraits of U.S navel heroes and victory scenes from the War of 1812. Engravings from renowned American artists, Gilbert Stuart were their primary source material.

ABOVE: Gold, enamel snuffbox. Possible Pierre-Francois-Mathis de Beaulier. ca. 1764-65.

ABOVE: Gold, enamel, diamonds, glass snuffbox. Jean-Joseph Barriere, ca. 1782

Antique Jewelry and Watches Show, New York

As quoted by the great Albert Einstein, "I have no special talents. I am only passionately curious." Perhaps this might have applied to me. I know I love jewelry (who doesn't?) but I never knew I would actually be developing myself in the jewelry industry. It all started from my first jewelry history class back when I was in college. Learning about the different time periods opened my eyes to how jewelry adornment has changed. Then my curiosity to understand more about the jewelry industry led me to start a jewelry subscription service as a side project. From there I landed a job at Swarovski and other well-known companies for internship. However, it wasn't till I created this blog that I started to fell in love with antique jewelry, every piece is so unique and meaningful.



Today was the last day of the Antique Jewelry & Watch Show held in New York, Metropolitan Pavilion. I knew this was something I could not miss and I was right. The minute I stepped into this show I was mind blown. Never in my life have I seen gemstones as big as my thumb, and diamonds as bright as the stars. They were truly museum quality pieces. Below were some pieces that I managed to take photos of, I wish I hadn't been that shy and had taken more photos.

There were about 113 booths, and all the jewelry pieces were secured in glass cases and there were bodyguards standing at every corner to ensure the safety of the sellers and buyers. At the show you could find pieces from high luxury companies such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., David Webb, etc. It was amazing to see the pieces in person. As I grace the details of every piece with my eye I can imagine feeling the weight of each piece on my fingers. The price tag was extremely heavy yet I see people paying in cash with hundred dollar bills. One day I want a piece of jewelry like this in my collection too.



I was so happy to finally see David Webb's animal bracelet in person. Below is a zebra bracelet that's made out of gold and diamonds, colored with enamel and embellished with emerald eyes. Next to it is the platinum bracelet covered with diamonds and baguette cut emeralds.





One of my favorite booth was Lenore Dailey's booth. Lenore Dailey's collecting expertise spans from many time periods and countries- Victorian, Art Nouveau, Memento Mori, Georgian, Edwardian, Arts & Crafts, Art Deco, Retro. The first thing that caught my attention was how she displayed her booth. Instead of white light and silver glass frame, she used yellow light and yellow glass frame. This gave off a very welcoming vibe when I walked passed her booth. When I took her business card I realized I actually follow her on social media. After speaking with the sales specialist, I filled in a draw to try and win this ring below.

Personally I think antique ring boxes are so cute and meaningful, it feels like I am opening a treasure chest compared to ring boxes we get in fine jewelry stores made out of cardboard materials.

Below was another booth I came across. The owner Patricia Novissimo- Lowther Antiques is from London. She specialized in Georgian jewelry, and her philosophy is straight-forward-

"Everything I buy must touch my heart. It has to appeal to me as if I were buying it for myself. I also feel that I am only the guardian of the piece, I never own it. I am merely the caretaker until someone else takes over that charge. These beautiful pieces have been around for hundreds of years and will exist for many hundreds of years to come and so they pass thorough our lives, enhancing them with their spirit and beauty".

Have you seen the documentary about the 400 Million Bahia Emerald? If you haven't you should definitely check it out (below). Found hidden in the earth of Brazil in 2001, this emerald weighs 840 pounds and contain roughly 180,000 carts of emerald crystals, making it one of the largest emerald ever found. Many people have tried to claim ownership of it but it never went through, now it's said to sit in a vault waiting to be claimed.

So you can imagine when I see a jewelry with emeralds on it. It reminded me of this documentary I watched and the number of years and hardship it took to extract such a beautiful stone. Below is a choker made of platinum covered with diamonds and a cabochon cut emerald centerpiece.



Below were other pieces that caught my attention.

Knowing me, I took their brochure and collected the business cards from all my favorite booths. So which one was your favorite piece? 

Jewelry boxes from the past

For many vintage/antique jewelry collectors, it may have occurred to them that a jewelry box is a must to store their precious jewelry. I have been obsessing over beautiful vintage jewelry box for quiet some time now, and I find Etsy to be a great place to browse the options. Below are jewelry boxes that I have picked out to share with you because I think they are unique and beautiful.

Jewelry boxes were once designed like treasure chest because they were used by the royalty, priests, and aristocrats who could afford to own valuables. However during the Industrial Revolution, fine jewelry became affordable for the middle class, and jewelry boxes started to be mass produced. You could find boxes made for single rings, multiple rings and boxes designed for jewelry and accessories. Some contained mirrors, clocks, or mechanical music-makers, while others had multiple compartments, drawers or trays.

Mid-century Ornate silverplate jewelry box sold by GoodPennyDesigns.

CASKET JEWELRY BOX:
These kind of jewelry box often come in the shape of a rectangle, and is made of inlaid or carved wood, metal, porcelain, button-pressed glass, or plastics like celluloid or Lucite. Others are shaped like squat cylinders with feet, heart-shaped boxes, egg-shaped containers, or human figurines.

Antique Jewelry Casket Brass Box- Ormolu Repossé Souvenir of France, 1900-1909. Sold by DanetteDarbonne.

In the early 1900s metal jewelry caskets flourished and was mass-produced in Europe and sold to U.S customers. The boxes (cast of antimonial lead) were electroplated in copper and finished in silver or gold with names like French Bronze, Roman Gold, Pompeian Gold, French Gray, and Parisian Silver. The inside you would find it lined with velvet, satin, faille, or silk.

Vintage Gold Filigree Casket Jewelry Box from 1960s, sold by bohemiansoulshine

TRINKET BOX:
The trinket box is a sibling of the casket jewelry box. These kind of jewelry box are embraced by the Victorians as they collect curiosities, souvenirs, gadgets, and other knick-knacks. The illustrations often featured miniature figures of kids, flowers, or animals on the lids. It kind of reminds me of disneyland. The most popular and probably the most expensive trinket boxes were created for the Russian Tsar from 1890s to early 1900s. You can read more about trinket boxes here.

Blue Trinket Jewelry Sewing Box- Arlequin Pierrot Colombine Decor, French Antique 1930, sold by FrenchAntiqueBoutique

French Antique Tobacco Box, Art Nouveau, 1920s, sold by TheGentlemansBlade

Antique Islamic Koran Quran Jewelry Enamel Box Holder, 1950s, sold by Acrazeelady

ART NOUVEAU MOVEMENT:
As the naturalistic Art Nouveau movement emerges, it led to flowing organic motifs, such as sinewy flowers, fluttering birds, and beautiful women. Keeping with Victorian tradition, the type of flowers on the jewelry box could represent a coded romantic message: four-leaf clovers meant good luck, daisies meant innocence, and roses were for love. (Below is just an example of a jewelry box with floral designs and not from the Victorian Era.)

Vintage Ormolu Gold Filigree Footed Jewelry Box Floral Design, 1950s. Sold by Junkbay

Filigree bronze and colored glass jewelry box, circa 1800's - early 1900's. Sold by arusantiques.

Godinger Silver Plated Jewelry Box, 1980s sold by GiftsByIrisWithLove

Wood is also one of the many materials used to make jewelry boxes. The texture gives off a crafty touch.

Vintage Italian Wedding Ring Box, Florentine Gold Gilt Wooden trinket box, 1950s. Sold by millyscollection.

Vintage Box, S.F. Hess & Co. sold by RustbeltTreasures

Antique Japanese Black Fine Cloisonne Box Early Century Birds and Floral, 1920s, sold by LotusInTheWind

Antique Beveled Glass Jewelry Box with Filigree Vanity Mirror, sold by LuxuryCityAntiques

Antique Egyptian Nile Goose/Pintail Duck GEB Decorative Glass Mosaic Keepsake Box, 1930. sold by CASAdeORO