GEMALOGUE BLOG: August 2015

With it being bridal season, and the increase of couples falling for vintage engagement rings. I have put together a list of the most popular vintage diamond cuts that I think would be helpful when your man buys you that engagement ring. ;)

ROSE CUTS

This cut dates to the 1500s and remained common during the Georgian (1714-and the Victorian Eras (1837-1901) The rose cut resembles a rosebud, with a flat bottom and dome-shaped crown that rises gently to a single apex, with between three and twenty-four facets. Because of the rose cut diamonds it give off a warm, romantic shimmer.

Antique Georgian rose cut diamond cluster ring. Sold on 1stdibs.

Victorian Dahna Ring features seven rose cut diamonds. Sold on Brilliant Earth.

OLD MINE CUT

This cut dates to the 1700s and was also widely used during the Georgian and Victorian Eras.This cut was invented before the jewelers understood how light passes through the diamonds, therefore the old mine cuts were faceted around the natural edges of the diamond. Which explains it being less dazzling compared to modern cuts. The old mine cut is considered an early form of today’s cushion cut.

Victorian old mine cut diamond and sapphire ring. c. 1893. Sold on Bavier Brook.

Old mine cut diamond ring featuring nine diamonds.

OLD EUROPEAN CUT

The old European cut was first seen in the 1800s and was used often in Victorian engagement rings, Edwardian designs, and Art Nouveau styles. This cut typically features 58 facets and a circular shape. To understand the evolution of jewelers knowledge in diamonds, it’s best to study this cut as it’s been through many variations.

Antique Edwardian ring featuring a 0.65 carat old european cut diamond. Sold on SOHO Jewelers.

Platinum 1.43ct old european cut diamond ring. Sold on Raymond Lee Jewelers.

SINGLE CUT

This is one of the oldest cut that dates back to the 1300s. The diamond features a flat top and an octagonal griddle, where the edge of the diamond is at its widest point.

Single cut diamonds feature 18 facets, and you’ll often see small single cut diamonds accenting a center gemstone in antique rings from the early twentieth century when jewelers still lacked the ability to create many facets in tiny gems.

Sapphire and diamond ring. c. 1920, 6.26ct sapphire surrounded by 18 single cut stones.

The diagram below gives a clearer idea of how the cuts are done on the diamonds. I can't say that I have a personal favorite between these cuts, I think they are all unique and give off a different vintage vibe. Which ones are your favorite?

First off, I want to say a big THANK YOU for the support you all have shown on my social media channel. I would have never thought that there is such a big Antique family out there. When I first started my blog and instagram, it was just a place for me to organize my information and the things I have learned. However it has grown into so much more, it has become a place to share and exchange ideas with other jewelry enthusiasts.

A few days ago I made a trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It's a place I go to for inspiration and to spend time with myself. My destination was to visit the European Decorative Arts section. To my surprise, there were many snuff boxes in that section. Today’s post feature Snuff boxes from the 18th to 19th century.

I didn't know much about snuff boxes, it sounded to me like a box you sniff something out off. And I was right! Inhaling snuff, or snuffing as it's also called, was first witness by European in 1493 when Friar Ramón Pane, who had arrived in the new world was living as a missionary among Haiti’s indigenous Taino. Until then tobacco was unknown to Europeans, but during the 1500s the use of tobacco spread tremendously. By the late 17th century, ornate boxes were created to keep the precious powder dry.

Early 18th century, French jewelers made snuff boxes out of gold set with diamonds, amethysts, and sapphires. By 1740, specialized artisan took over the production of these ornate tabatières and engraved, chased, and enameled them. Below is a snuff box made out of gold, enamel and diamonds. ca. 1820. When wound up, the bird turns and flutters its wings while music plays. These "singing bird" boxes were especially popular in the East.

SHAPES:

Snuff boxes shapes were not limited to simple rectangles. The most common were porcelain containers resembling trunks, so were ovals, but tabatières shaped like shells were more rare. The snuff box below is varicolored, gold and enameled. Signed: J.N (John Northam? active 1793) After William IV's accession in 1830, this otherwise plain box was embellished with an encrusted plaque bearing his monogram.

MEDIUM:

Sometimes these snuff boxes were hand painted. Pictures of miniature landscapes, bucolic scenes to tiny portraits or grisaille cameos of their owners could be seen.

Silver snuff boxes are usually associated with Sheffield, England, where silver-plating technologies were more advanced in the late 18th century. Below is a 1750 Germany gold and mother-of-pearl snuff box. It's a gift of J. Pierpont Morgan.

By the 19th century, the silver industry has blossomed in Birmingham, England. Box makers such as Samuel Pemberton, Nathaniel Mills, and Edward Smith were some of the many well-known container producers who produced images of castles and abbeys on the box tops and sides.

ABOVE: Gold, enamaled, ivory, glass snuffbox. Joseph- Etienne Blerzy (master 1768) Miniature attributed to Francios Dumont.

BELOW: Double Snuffbox. Gold, enamel, vellum, gouache, glass. Jean Ducrollay. Miniature portraits on all sides and inside the two covers of Louis XV, Marie Leszeznska, and their children. (1749-50)

Soon Birmingham became the center for papier-mâché snuff boxes, which were hardened by multiple layers of enamel. As the market for inexpensive boxes grew in the United States, Birmingham box makers were decorating their wares with portraits of U.S navel heroes and victory scenes from the War of 1812. Engravings from renowned American artists, Gilbert Stuart were their primary source material.