Mystery Diamond Cuts Solved

With it being bridal season, and the increase of couples falling for vintage engagement rings. I have put together a list of the most popular vintage diamond cuts that I think would be helpful when your man buys you that engagement ring. ;)

ROSE CUTS

This cut dates to the 1500s and remained common during the Georgian (1714-and the Victorian Eras (1837-1901) The rose cut resembles a rosebud, with a flat bottom and dome-shaped crown that rises gently to a single apex, with between three and twenty-four facets. Because of the rose cut diamonds it give off a warm, romantic shimmer.  

Antique Georgian rose cut diamond cluster ring. Sold on 1stdibs.

Victorian Dahna Ring features seven rose cut diamonds. Sold on Brilliant Earth.

OLD MINE CUT

This cut dates to the 1700s and was also widely used during the Georgian and Victorian Eras.This cut was invented before the jewelers understood how light passes through the diamonds, therefore the old mine cuts were faceted around the natural edges of the diamond. Which explains it being less dazzling compared to modern cuts. The old mine cut is considered an early form of today’s cushion cut. 

 Victorian old mine cut diamond and sapphire ring. c. 1893. Sold on Bavier Brook. 

Old mine cut diamond ring featuring nine diamonds. 

OLD EUROPEAN CUT

The old European cut was first seen in the 1800s and was used often in Victorian engagement rings, Edwardian designs, and Art Nouveau styles. This cut typically features 58 facets and a circular shape. To understand the evolution of jewelers knowledge in diamonds, it’s best to study this cut as it’s been through many variations.

 Antique Edwardian ring featuring a 0.65 carat old european cut diamond. Sold on SOHO Jewelers.  

Platinum 1.43ct old european cut diamond ring. Sold on Raymond Lee Jewelers.

SINGLE CUT 

This is one of the oldest cut that dates back to the 1300s. The diamond features a flat top and an octagonal griddle, where the edge of the diamond is at its widest point. 

Single cut diamonds feature 18 facets, and you’ll often see small single cut diamonds accenting a center gemstone in antique rings from the early twentieth century when jewelers still lacked the ability to create many facets in tiny gems. 

 Sapphire and diamond ring. c. 1920, 6.26ct sapphire surrounded by 18 single cut stones.

The diagram below gives a clearer idea of how the cuts are done on the diamonds. I can't say that I have a personal favorite between these cuts, I think they are all unique and give off a different vintage vibe. Which ones are your favorite?

European Snuffboxes

First off, I want to say a big THANK YOU for the support you all have shown on my social media channel. I would have never thought that there is such a big Antique family out there. When I first started my blog and instagram, it was just a place for me to organize my information and the things I have learned. However it has grown into so much more, it has become a place to share and exchange ideas with other jewelry enthusiasts.

A few days ago I made a trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It's a place I go to for inspiration and to spend time with myself. My destination was to visit the European Decorative Arts section. To my surprise, there were many snuff boxes in that section. Today’s post feature Snuff boxes from the 18th to 19th century.

I didn't know much about snuff boxes, it sounded to me like a box you sniff something out off. And I was right! Inhaling snuff, or snuffing as it's also called, was first witness by European in 1493 when Friar Ramón Pane, who had arrived in the new world was living as a missionary among Haiti’s indigenous Taino. Until then tobacco was unknown to Europeans, but during the 1500s the use of tobacco spread tremendously. By the late 17th century, ornate boxes were created to keep the precious powder dry.

Early 18th century, French jewelers made snuff boxes out of gold set with diamonds, amethysts, and sapphires. By 1740, specialized artisan took over the production of these ornate tabatières and engraved, chased, and enameled them. Below is a snuff box made out of gold, enamel and diamonds. ca. 1820. When wound up, the bird turns and flutters its wings while music plays. These "singing bird" boxes were especially popular in the East.

SHAPES:

Snuff boxes shapes were not limited to simple rectangles. The most common were porcelain containers resembling trunks, so were ovals, but tabatières shaped like shells were more rare. The snuff box below is varicolored, gold and enameled. Signed: J.N (John Northam? active 1793) After William IV's accession in 1830, this otherwise plain box was embellished with an encrusted plaque bearing his monogram.

MEDIUM:

Sometimes these snuff boxes were hand painted. Pictures of miniature landscapes, bucolic scenes to tiny portraits or grisaille cameos of their owners could be seen. 

Silver snuff boxes are usually associated with Sheffield, England, where silver-plating technologies were more advanced in the late 18th century. Below is a 1750 Germany gold and mother-of-pearl snuff box. It's a gift of J. Pierpont Morgan. 

By the 19th century, the silver industry has blossomed in Birmingham, England. Box makers such as Samuel Pemberton, Nathaniel Mills, and Edward Smith were some of the many well-known container producers who produced images of castles and abbeys on the box tops and sides.

ABOVE: Gold, enamaled, ivory, glass snuffbox. Joseph- Etienne Blerzy (master 1768) Miniature attributed to Francios Dumont.



BELOW: Double Snuffbox. Gold, enamel, vellum, gouache, glass. Jean Ducrollay. Miniature portraits on all sides and inside the two covers of Louis XV, Marie Leszeznska, and their children. (1749-50)



Soon Birmingham became the center for papier-mâché snuff boxes, which were hardened by multiple layers of enamel. As the market for inexpensive boxes grew in the United States, Birmingham box makers were decorating their wares with portraits of U.S navel heroes and victory scenes from the War of 1812. Engravings from renowned American artists, Gilbert Stuart were their primary source material.

ABOVE: Gold, enamel snuffbox. Possible Pierre-Francois-Mathis de Beaulier. ca. 1764-65.

ABOVE: Gold, enamel, diamonds, glass snuffbox. Jean-Joseph Barriere, ca. 1782

Jewelry boxes from the past

For many vintage/antique jewelry collectors, it may have occurred to them that a jewelry box is a must to store their precious jewelry. I have been obsessing over beautiful vintage jewelry box for quiet some time now, and I find Etsy to be a great place to browse the options. Below are jewelry boxes that I have picked out to share with you because I think they are unique and beautiful.

Jewelry boxes were once designed like treasure chest because they were used by the royalty, priests, and aristocrats who could afford to own valuables. However during the Industrial Revolution, fine jewelry became affordable for the middle class, and jewelry boxes started to be mass produced. You could find boxes made for single rings, multiple rings and boxes designed for jewelry and accessories. Some contained mirrors, clocks, or mechanical music-makers, while others had multiple compartments, drawers or trays.

Mid-century Ornate silverplate jewelry box sold by GoodPennyDesigns.

CASKET JEWELRY BOX:
These kind of jewelry box often come in the shape of a rectangle, and is made of inlaid or carved wood, metal, porcelain, button-pressed glass, or plastics like celluloid or Lucite. Others are shaped like squat cylinders with feet, heart-shaped boxes, egg-shaped containers, or human figurines.

Antique Jewelry Casket Brass Box- Ormolu Repossé Souvenir of France, 1900-1909. Sold by DanetteDarbonne.

In the early 1900s metal jewelry caskets flourished and was mass-produced in Europe and sold to U.S customers. The boxes (cast of antimonial lead) were electroplated in copper and finished in silver or gold with names like French Bronze, Roman Gold, Pompeian Gold, French Gray, and Parisian Silver. The inside you would find it lined with velvet, satin, faille, or silk.

Vintage Gold Filigree Casket Jewelry Box from 1960s, sold by bohemiansoulshine

TRINKET BOX:
The trinket box is a sibling of the casket jewelry box. These kind of jewelry box are embraced by the Victorians as they collect curiosities, souvenirs, gadgets, and other knick-knacks. The illustrations often featured miniature figures of kids, flowers, or animals on the lids. It kind of reminds me of disneyland. The most popular and probably the most expensive trinket boxes were created for the Russian Tsar from 1890s to early 1900s. You can read more about trinket boxes here.

Blue Trinket Jewelry Sewing Box- Arlequin Pierrot Colombine Decor, French Antique 1930, sold by FrenchAntiqueBoutique

French Antique Tobacco Box, Art Nouveau, 1920s, sold by TheGentlemansBlade

Antique Islamic Koran Quran Jewelry Enamel Box Holder, 1950s, sold by Acrazeelady

ART NOUVEAU MOVEMENT:
As the naturalistic Art Nouveau movement emerges, it led to flowing organic motifs, such as sinewy flowers, fluttering birds, and beautiful women. Keeping with Victorian tradition, the type of flowers on the jewelry box could represent a coded romantic message: four-leaf clovers meant good luck, daisies meant innocence, and roses were for love. (Below is just an example of a jewelry box with floral designs and not from the Victorian Era.)

Vintage Ormolu Gold Filigree Footed Jewelry Box Floral Design, 1950s. Sold by Junkbay

Filigree bronze and colored glass jewelry box, circa 1800's - early 1900's. Sold by arusantiques.

Godinger Silver Plated Jewelry Box, 1980s sold by GiftsByIrisWithLove

Wood is also one of the many materials used to make jewelry boxes. The texture gives off a crafty touch.

Vintage Italian Wedding Ring Box, Florentine Gold Gilt Wooden trinket box, 1950s. Sold by millyscollection.

Vintage Box, S.F. Hess & Co. sold by RustbeltTreasures

Antique Japanese Black Fine Cloisonne Box Early Century Birds and Floral, 1920s, sold by LotusInTheWind

Antique Beveled Glass Jewelry Box with Filigree Vanity Mirror, sold by LuxuryCityAntiques

Antique Egyptian Nile Goose/Pintail Duck GEB Decorative Glass Mosaic Keepsake Box, 1930. sold by CASAdeORO

Road Trip: Showplace Antique Center

You know as one ages, their interest change. I used to work around the corner of Showplace Antique Center and I never bothered to take a look inside. Now that my passion has developed in the jewelry industry it'll be a shame of me to not have been inside this antique center.

The four-floor retail arcade features 150 individually-owned shops that sells fine antique with guaranteed authenticity. Their most popular items are mostly jewelry, decorative items like lamps, paintings, and art pottery. There are some costume piece jewelry too. I can't say that their prices are cheap. According to Yelp reviews, their prices are in the double dollar sign. However I did came across many beautiful pieces that I wish I could keep for myself.

Every Sunday they have an estate auction that starts early in the morning. It was my first time at an auction, it's not as grand as Sotheby's auction but it's a start. I really wanted to feel involved so I took one of their catalogue and started writing down the price of each item, since that's what I saw the lady beside me doing. What is great about this auction is that it's quiet small, there's not that many people hence the pieces also goes out really fast. The pieces that went on auction that day were mostly decorative items such as furniture, lamps and paintings. Since I don't know much about antique pieces, I can't help but question the authenticity of them.

After finishing writing a full page of prices I decided to go upstairs. Like any antique stores, the second floor is filled with many items. You can see light fixtures hanging from the ceiling, beautiful big mirrors hanged up on the wall, and shiny jewelry behind glass boxes.



It was not long till this stunning ring (below) caught my attention. I stared at it for awhile before asking the sale specialist to let me try it on. Perhaps a poet would be best to describe the emotions I felt when I slide it onto my finger. The emerald and diamond are such great companion. According to the sale specialist, this ring was made in the 1960s. Sadly this ring came with a heavy price tag.

As I continued to wonder around the store, I came across these carefully displayed cameo jewelry. If you paid closed attention, you would have noticed that cameo pieces tend to be a woman's profile carved out of white shells against a coral background. I did a little research and found out that the pieces below were from the Victorian period. The most common motif is the portrait, usually it depicts a celebrity of the day- ruler, scholar or philosopher.

Than in the early 19th century, cameos started to feature anonymous Roman woman wearing no jewelry. On the other hand, lava cameos carved with mysterious woman's image were sought out by Victoria women on the Grand Tour- a travel rite passage for the upper-class European. Since then these Victorian women had a big influence on the cameos when they demanded a more familiar-looking lady, with thinner neck, her hair up and wearing jewelry. Below you can see a few pieces where the lady is wearing necklaces around their neck.



Below: I found this necklace interesting because when I see a head of a buddha it's often carved out of jade. So I thought it was unusual to see a buddha head carved out of coral. Somehow the coral is not as red as it could be, however it still looks beautiful nevertheless. If you like this necklace, here is a similar piece made of coral and pearls, I think it has a more fashionable look to it.





Below are more of my favorite pieces. From rings, to necklaces, to brooches and bracelets.

RINGS
Common materials in antique rings are platinum, gold, diamonds, pearls and gemstones.








EARRINGS
These 14K yellow gold earrings reminded me of David Webb gold pieces. There's a touch of antique style yet it's bald and barbaric in a sense. I always think that gold and diamonds are the best combination, however a few precious gemstones enhance the fun in a piece.

BRACELETS & BROOCHES